Having collected the boys from kennels on Wednesday and then driven back
up past Loch Lomond to camp for one night at Lochgilphead
before getting the boat over to Islay from Kennacraig.
We are staying at a campsite in Port Charlotte which has two
pubs. The eye wateringly expensive Port Charlotte Hotel, which to its credit
sells three real ales, although at a premium and all are only 3.8% and one is Greene
King IPA but another is for Islay and one from Loch Fyne. They also won’t
serve us food outside because of Health and Safety, even though it’s a glorious
evening, nor will they let the dogs inside lest it might upset their two
customers.
The other pub, whose name escapes me, has a Draught Bass
hand pump on the bar but doesn’t have any and I'm not sure they ever have had. They do serve Islay Beers in bottles
as most places do but hardly anywhere sells the local brews on draught. That's a poor
show. The bar also wouldn’t serve us food after 6.45 as they were too busy. We eat
back at the campsite cafe, which is frequently running out of food presumably
because no one can get served anywhere else but each time they do manage to
come up with something.
On Saturday I plod around the Islay Half Marathon which is
hosted by the island’s capital Bowmore, home of the famous whisky, but the race
is sponsored by Ardbeg, one of the rival distilleries on the island of which
there are eight.
The race was tough on a fairly hilly course and it rained
throughout. There are some pretty serious straights on the course and I swear
that as you come up to one mile marker you can actually see the next in the
distance. Perhaps, if your eyesight was better than mine, you’d be able to see
the next one too.
I finish in a very pedestrian 1:54
and gagging for a post race pint. Unfortunately Belhaven Best on keg is the
best they could offer. I did swear I would not have another one but I do and
again it is awful. Much better at the race presentation is the free whiskey
from Ardbeg. They give out loads of prizes including gallon bottles
to the winners. Clearly they are keen to upstage the local Bowmore distillery
but it’s all too late for us. We’re already sold on Bunnahabhain after an
excellent sales pitch by their rep on the ferry over, as in free samples.
Much
smoother than the normal Islay malts it became the
tipple of choice under canvas once the Talisker we brought with us ran out and
considering the lack of real ale options.
(Saturday 2nd August)
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